Detecting West Australian Gold
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settings on a 45

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Post by Guest Wed 03 Sep 2014, 7:14 am

had nothing to do so I thought I would get out my manual on a 4500 and have a read again as you do when u r lying around.
have any of you detect in --SPECIAL--SENSITIVE SMOOTH and with the search mode flicked into HI-MINERAL.

IN REASONABLE GROUND ITS ONLY MARGINAL TO MANUAL TUNE IN THE LOWER NUMBERS COMPARED TO THE 180+ numbers

the lower frequencies will allow u to hear deeper targets slightly easier than the higher numbers.

there are a lot of detector users that haven't fathomed the settings and personally they never will. maybe they are to inpatient just to get out there and start swinging

regards
oneday

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Post by martinjsto Wed 03 Sep 2014, 10:56 am

good point ray, i have found myself being too impatient to swing the detector to re read the manual. I decided to read the 5k manual one night on the muster and immediately realised i had the settings in salt gold not fine when in special mode, helped heaps with the ground noise variations and hotrocks I was getting every few meters in some areas.
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Post by Narrawa Wed 03 Sep 2014, 6:47 pm

the lower frequencies will allow u to hear deeper targets slightly easier than the higher numbers.
Where in the manual does it say this.?

Its myth...its a pulse detector, which means it works on the time domain...not the frequency domain.











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Post by Guest Wed 03 Sep 2014, 6:56 pm

page 63 mate---its amazing what u find when u read the manual again..

unless I have taken it out of context--correct me if im wrong..

regards
oneday

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Post by Guest Wed 03 Sep 2014, 8:15 pm

will check me other book-(5000 4800)--sure it says it in there as well..

regards
oneday

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Post by Narrawa Wed 03 Sep 2014, 10:26 pm

Your right, but ...read page 4 paragraph 3.
Do you believe that also.? I mean to say, its written in the manual so it must be true.
Paragraph 2 says ...."This improvement in calibration reduces the susceptibility to certain types of interference."
Name one type of interference Seta gets rid of on the 45/5k, thats not found on the 4k ...which has no seta,.? or the 3500 which along with the 4k, both have a manual tune adjustment.
This myth has been with us for many years now, yet i can find no number that works better than any other number.....and if there was one number better than the others for depth/sensitivity...there will always be a negative reaction. Nothing for nothing.

The 5k has SETA, yet its no better than that of the 4500 or 4800....if it was, the 5k finds would be overwhelming.....how disappointing.

Ray, there are a lot of things written in the manual, but not all of it is gospel. If lowering the tune number gave better depth.....(and believe me i fiddle with this all the time looking for something provable)...than it would be common knowledge and the forums would have a segment dedicated to the best freq/number to use.

Add a coil thats a tad down on its Q to the equation, and which way should we tune the freq to make it punch deeper.???.

High mineralization in the top layer, low on the bottom....what freq will wok best.??

Lets assume im a strong supporter of this....i use big coils and low numbers religiously.....problem is, the area im working in, seems to always Autotune in the high numbers...... What now.??

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Post by Guest Thu 04 Sep 2014, 7:42 am

yep agree with u--every time we auto tune it goes as high as 220 then u walk 50m sometimes and u auto tune again and it drops to 160.

The manual is a guideline to focus on with were to set and how to set yah machine.

I was picking up 5-7 gram nuggets on a recent patch --the top layer was gravel yet the nuggets were buried in clay... sometimes I sit back and think how good are these machines to decipher the mineralisation and still come up with the goods.

so one would expect to run yah machine well up in the numbers when chasing salt gold--not that I'm excited chasing salt gold but there is no shortage of others who like chasing the small pieces.

I think we still have to play around with the settings to a certain extent and not rely on just one setting to be all end all.

regards
oneday

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Post by Narrawa Thu 04 Sep 2014, 10:12 am

I like the fact that people set their detectors up with their settings set in stone..... Razz  Honestly, the more people who believe their going to gain something from the freq/tune scandal, the better.

But at the end of the day...The only thing to be gained from the freq adjustment is....less EMI.

We tried all this back when the first autotune came out on the 3k from memory, with turning the machine off when the autotune was roughly in the vicinity of low or high numbers. Nothing was gained by doing this, other than a detector trying to operate with more EMI.

Doe's anyone know what page its on in the 4k or 3500 manual...as both have manual tune.?
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Post by Bignuggs Thu 04 Sep 2014, 10:38 am

I hate to read manuals and not really had time to play with a 5000 to know about this set up.
Is it better to leave it in Auto tune or use Manual tune to suite where you are and what ya doing.
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Post by Narrawa Thu 04 Sep 2014, 1:46 pm

Is it better to leave it in Auto tune or use Manual tune to suite where you are and what ya doing.
And that is the question.??
Many use the manual tune function, and many use the autotune function.
I simply use the autotune and get on with finding gold.

However, i do fiddle when im over a target that begs the question as to dig or not, simply because i just got to know if any of the so called tweaks have any merit.

JP once said there is a slight brightening of the signal, but any brightening of the signal is also a brightening of the unwanted's.
Maybe he used different wording, but along those lines.

Me, i cant find anything in it other than, having the detector rejecting as much EMI as possible. Now when you think about it....if there was a slight advantage to tweaking the numbers...whats the chance of those numbers falling where the EMI is at its lowest.? Lets say it does, are you going to state that its because of the freq tweak, or the fact the tweak gave the best EMI rejection.?
Well its easy, if you think you have the EMI tamed, your going to hear faint targets far better than a set of numbers sitting on the source of the EMI. Tweaking for the best EMI rejection would have to have more merit than an unproven freq tweak.

When someone wants to show me otherwise, i'll be in it just in case im holding my mouth wrong. Im all for tweaking and mixing it up some.
But be warned, others have tried and failed when i show them how a simple, yet incorrect GB can effect the acquisition of a target and the response given by their so called freq tweak/manual tune tweak.

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Post by Bignuggs Thu 04 Sep 2014, 3:34 pm

Here's my last dumb questions until I get another 5000 but a statement first.
If you are using auto tune, then to a dinosaur like me it suggests it is automatically tuning though there are times you may have to change settings.
 
1. If you are using Auto Tune, does it only tune you to the actual spot where you are doing the start up or is it constantly tuning to your surrounds as you are walking and swinging.

2. If it is constantly tuning, then why switch into the manual mode if it is tuned to the spot you are standing on where ever that is from start up spot.

3. Does anyone think that maybe ML put too many bells and whistles on the 5000 ?

Does any of this rambling make sense ?

Cheers
Cliff

PS.  I luv my old extreme, it's easy to use.
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Post by Narrawa Thu 04 Sep 2014, 6:30 pm

1. If you are using Auto Tune, does it only tune you to the actual spot where you are doing the start up or is it constantly tuning to your surrounds as you are walking and swinging.
Its simply tuning the detector to that spot in time, and as the beeps are heard at the end of the cycle, a mass of EMI could start up making the autotunes freq.....useless.
EMI is not fixed in any one area, tho there maybe a source that is dominant for that location....perhaps a radio tower ect ect.

3. Does anyone think that maybe ML put too many bells and whistles on the 5000 ?
When its made to have all parameters user selectable, then it has bells and whistles.



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Post by Guest Thu 04 Sep 2014, 6:39 pm

I suppose u never stop learning--

I usually leave mine in Manual Tune to the amount of EMI up here in the Pilbara..every time the machine starts to warble I just reach around and twist the right hand knob and bobs yah uncle..if I remember i'll twist it back later or when the next batch of disturbance hits us which is very frequent up here.

overcast conditions usually bring the spikes in the ground and trains planes and god knows whatever else brings the rest of the excitement..


regards
oneday

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Post by martinjsto Thu 04 Sep 2014, 7:26 pm

i have been trying auto tuning about 6 or so times a day on the last few trips. seems to keep the machine quieter around Yerilla in the same area we couldn't detect in last year even with a DD due to noise. it does seem to me to be advantageous to auto tune more regularly during the day, the post above answers why, cheers guys.
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Post by Narrawa Thu 04 Sep 2014, 8:13 pm

overcast conditions usually bring the spikes in the ground and trains planes and god knows whatever else brings the rest of the excitement..
Overcast days/cloud cover is responsible for certain freq being refracted more easily.

So when static builds up, where doe's it discharge.?? Could you be causing some of the spiking heard.??? Find out and wear a woolie jumper...and get back to me. Laughing  Laughing


I find as soon as i hit dead grass, i get spiking more often.
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Post by Guest Fri 05 Sep 2014, 7:20 am

good one Owen--u wear a wooly jumper in 37'c as it is at the moment and tell me what happens..

as far as dead grass goes ---the whole place is dead grass with trains every 25 minutes--33k High tension power lines going this way and that way--iron stone--magnetite and yep snakes arising from their 4 weeks of winter sleep.

Mind u the 2300 has very good capabilities resisting the warbling effects in the Pilbara compared to the GPX's... that bit of technology is certainly a winner.

if we were causing the spiking through static electricity then I fear anyone that's involved in a holdup at a petrol station..the skeleton in a woolly jumper was here..another bloody prospector who didn't deactivate himself prior to filling up..

but all good--the worst I ever found for static electricity was Mitsubishi cars--every time u touched the doors you got zapped.

I might have to open up my machine to see whether the wiring looms around the plugs have come loose. maybe those ceramic rings have come loose adding to my woes every now and then.

regards
oneday

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Post by Bignuggs Fri 05 Sep 2014, 8:25 am

Some people drag a chain behind them so maybe attach and drag a rubber strip behind ya to get rid of the static or is that a dumb idea.
and are ya's saying you can press the auto tune button anytime ya like ? if the answer is yes, then why bother using the manual tune function
or does hitting the auto tune mean waiting for the machine to throw 3 beeps at ya again.
Does the manual tune work faster than the auto tune ?
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Post by martinjsto Fri 05 Sep 2014, 9:58 am

interesting about the static build up in the mitsubishi. everytime o touched my dog when in the car i get a zap, and the old gal yelps a bit too. dosnt matter if i'm standing outside on the ground or in the car with her. dabbling a bit in electronics, i use a wrist band to protect sensitive chips and though I better be careful grabbing the detector out the back after a few km, could fry it. jhgigfif

as far as the auto tune Cliff, it takes the normal few minutes to retune every time you press the button v's twitching manually which is instantly set to the frequency you set, but can you find the best frequency for the area going through all the frequencies manually and deciding on the quietest, faster than auto, dont think so.
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Post by Narrawa Fri 05 Sep 2014, 10:14 pm

Static electricity isn't brand aware......Mitsubishi, Holden, Ford, its not the car at fault. Ever see the rubber strip hanging from the rear bumper or chassis of some vehicles.??? It has a copper wire inside it. Some say it stops motion sickness as well. Laughing Laughing ..Minelab said that SETA stops the earths magnetic field from tormenting the GPX too. Razz  Laughing  Laughing


Cliff,
as far as the auto tune Cliff, it takes the normal few minutes to retune every time you press the button v's twitching manually which is instantly set to the frequency you set, but can you find the best frequency for the area going through all the frequencies manually and deciding on the quietest, faster than auto, dont think so.
Exactly...if anyone can, please let ML know so they can emit this feature from future models. This will save them valuable R&D, and a saving to ML, is a saving passed on to the end user....isn't it.? Laughing
Seriously, you have to put faith in the programming of this autotune feature, because if you can beet it with the manual tune, than the autotune was just a useless gimmick. However, man being man, will always fall for such things because the literature accompanying such, tells us its worthy. Just as the literature surrounding SETA did.
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Post by Bignuggs Sat 06 Sep 2014, 12:31 pm

So we can get GPS units that have a constant track mode, detectors that have a constant tracking mode but we can't get constant tuning.
Have I got that right ? maybe constant tuning will be in the next generation ML detectors or maybe ML can come up with a modification that can be done to the current detectors.
Hmmmm, maybe I ask for too much or have I suggested something which is a dumb idea.
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Post by Guest Sat 06 Sep 2014, 1:02 pm

u need the 2300 cliff--its the ducks nuts for an old goat like u.. lol!

only 2 knobs to play with and no frustration.

regards
oneday

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